chiang mai v1.2

after the trek we went for thai massages. so good. so cheap. we have gone again and again. afterwards as we were heading back to our guesthouse there was a large police presence near the chedi hotel. the police had completely blocked off traffic and were directing cars and people back. fearing a bombing lydia and i investigated. as soon as the crowds and traffic were contained by the local police in came the military for a swift deployment around the chedi hotel. it was amazing efficient and quick. as soon as the military had taken their positions in came a large motorcade with more police and military presence. a huge entourage exited the main vehicle, and the military jacked up and soluted the figure exiting the car. we found out by asking the nearest mp that we had just seen the king of thailand (or at least his motorcade as he was ushered in so quickly). that night at dinner an elephant surprised me while we ate at an outdoor restaurant and i had to duck to avoid his trunk.

the next day we had a deserved sleep in and then decided to finish off the touristy sites. we tried to find the city's public transportation but gave up in the heat. we took a songtau to wat phra that doi suthep - chiang mai's famed mountain and temple. we made the 1,000m twisting climb in the songtau while we chatted with the other passengers, and arrived to climb the 290-step naga (snake) staircase that was built in 1557. the staircase, and the expansive view of the city, were the best part of the wat. too touristy, crowded and liberal with gold (gaudy) buddhas and spires everywhere. i was disappointed. even the museum was closed, but the gift shops and the admission booth to buy a ticket were of course open. as we had first hand knowledge that the royal family was present, we had to cancel our plans to visit phuping palace (doi buc ha) - the summer residence of of royal family. but things worked out as you will see later (everything happens for a reason in thailand and usually for the best).

the other backpackers who shared our songtau up the mountain quickly became good friends. i took an immediate liking to chase, an american from south carolina who had by chance paired with two brits named michelle and caroline. we all decided to head to the royal flora ratchapruek. this project, began four years ago to honour the anniversary of the king's accension to the throne, is the size of disneyland and houses flowers from most countries of the world. as luck would have it the exhibit was just opened in november and will close at the end of this month.

we had an amazing time with our group dynamic. arriving late we paid to have a driver cart us around in an oversize golf cart we shared with another thai family. joking, filming, fake yelling. screwing around. it was chaos trying to see everything before the night concert and laser show began. nearing the end of the ride we all (thai family included) abandoned the golf cart and began running to the show. we stopped along the way to intermittantly taking pictures of our group with and wihtout our new thai family. in the end we ended up receiving the mother's business card, and received a standing invitation to their home in bangkok should we pass that way.

the laser show was incredible - complete with dancers, singers, musicians, elephants, fireworks and lasers. all in thai we did not understand a word of the story but who cares. it was like watching a thai pink floyd concert except that a floating flower replaced the floating pig. after the show was the disney-like parade, again musical and neon. at one point caroline fell down a hill and got covered in mud, but using the mai pen rai technique, we all laughed it off and helped clean her up. nearing closing we all ran frantically around trying to see as many countries as possible. they blended together along with the laughs, pictures and ninja kicks. there was an indescribable feeling of levity, that we were meant to to all meet each other, and that what we were doing (running around a giant flora show) was right. i probably will never be able to describe it fully what it meant to make familar friends so quickly in a strange land.

we waited until the park closed to leave, but ended up taking the wrong gate to find ourselves in the middle of nowhere. chase hailed a songtau and bartered a great price for us. lyds and i were invited back to their hostel for some beers while caroline changed. the beers were so good and when lydia tried to decline chase said that "where he (i) come from that means yes." they generously applied them to their hostel tab. as lyds and i had been in town longer it was left to us to pick a spot for dinner. i chose a soccer bar that is known for having dancers and a night life (as well as surprise elephant encounters). on the walk there we talked music - chase, like me, is a huge fan of the killers - and everything else. we both agreed to send each other a list of different artists that we like, and carried singha (brand of beer) travellers with us like we were in vegas. at the bar it was my turn to treat (let it not be said canadians aren't greatful and generous), and i got the table so tiger beers. we all ordered food. the spice and beers kept coming at us "like a cobra," and tuk-tuks were said to be "coming in hot." the conversation never lagged. if chase and i were official representitives of our countries there would be much better relations.

a sad farewell at the end of the night saw emails being exchanged and promises to look each other up if passing through our respective cities. i needed this drinking night out with the boy(s), and again i was impressed with the people i have met through traveller's chance. chase also taught me his motto: sleep when it is over.

damn right.